Caye Caulker, Belize Trip January 2004

Part III: Wednesday - Friday

shore scene
Wednesday (Jan 7) was a bum around day. We were up for a bit in the middle of the night because the power went off. That meant the fan stopped and it got very stuffy. As usual, it came back on after about an hour. We started out walking back down towards the airport to visit CocoPlum gardens, only to discover that is isn't open on Wednesdays! We wandered back, looked at gardens, messed about in the tidal pools at the shoreline. The wind has turned and is now coming from the north rather than east. Sure enough, big gray clouds showed up and we got another 20 minutes or so of rain. And the power went off again. But then it clears back up and the sky is blue again. We went with Dave to Mouchy's (on Middle Street) for lunch. ($9.25US for all 3 of us.) Mario's brother and his Guatamalan wife own it and the food was an interesting mix of Mexican, Belizean and Guatamalan. Good and plentiful.

penguin and crabAfter lunch we went to the split. Visibility wasn't as good as usual, apparently because of the rain earlier, but John snorkeled a bit and saw giant angel fish, lots of smaller stuff and a giant puffer fish. He swam over to the other side, wandered a bit and saw a hummingbird, picked up shells and a number of hermit crabs (one of them made friends with Mr. Penguin at right). I was planning to swim, too (it is not very far across the split) but it was pretty windy and I wimped out - just decided I didn't want to get wet! I walked back to the hotel and spent some time on the porch reading. Below left is our local iguana who perched on the rooftop next door every afternoon for his sun time!iguana on roof

Dinner was at Marin's which is the only place we ate that I wouldn't recommend. The waitress got confused and brought us (and charged us for) an extra meal and the food wasn't even very good. Maybe we caught them on a bad day? We did manage to talk her into turning off the boom box!

boobyIt was fun hearing about Katie and Gail's day. The trip to the Blue Hole is long - about 2.5 hours - and pretty rough. They also had some dolphins playing with the boat but their camera equipment was stashed in backpacks and they had to all sit in the back of the boat to get over the rough waves. Not a fun ride. And we have no dolphin pictures among us! However, they said the snorkeling was great - the guides divided them into groups and took them around pointing things out. The boat went on ahead to where they would finish. Then they went to Half Moon Caye which is a bird sanctuary - had lunch there and saw the red footed booby birds (at right) and lots of frigates. Below left is a frigate in flight. See the little red spot under its "chin?" Now look at the picture on the right! Yep - same bird, deciding to be "attractive!"

frigate               puffed frigate

Thursday, Jan 8. It was raining some this morning and the sky was cloudy. John had booked an all day snorkel with Pirate but all the others cancelled because of the weather. So he went down to Mario's and there was a German couple there interested in going out so the 3 of them went with Nathaniel (Mario's cousin). By 11 the sky was lovely, the clouds had passed and I'm sure the afternoon trips were all full. He had a good day - saw barracudas and sea turtle among other things.

all of usI shopped and got a couple of small water colors by a local artist, a Christmas ornament, a painted t-shirt (for "art" not to wear) and a pair of carved dolphin earrings. Then came back and sat on the deck and read (with the iguana) for a while; had lunch w/ Katie and Dave at Glenda's. At 12:30 she was out of everything except the chicken w/ beans and rice. But for $3 each we all had that and it was really great. Two pieces of chicken, beans & rice plus excellent potato salad. I laid around for most of the afternoon, talked to Katie and read on the deck and then took a walk down the beach. A nice lazy "soak up the sun and stare at the reef" afternoon. At left is all of us, except Dave who took the picture, in front of the sign at our suites. All week we've been watching people stand their families in front of the sign and take pictures and I couldn't figure out why since they aren't staying here. But it DOES say "on the beach" and Caye Caulker, Belize (behind us) so I guess it's just a neat sign for a souvenir.

dinnerFor our last dinner we went back to Habaneros. Here are Gail, Dave and Katie apparently listening intently to John (as I try to use up my film). I had seafood canelloni and kaluha fudge brownie for dessert (oh, I will be sorry no doubt….) It was quite wonderful. Originally we had planned to take the water taxi back to Belize City as one more "Belize experience." But, after much discussion I was outvoted - it was decided we had spent enough time on the water and the hassle of the water taxi, then cab to the airport was just too much. It's quite a bit more expensive to fly ($46 each compared to around $19) but admittedly it is quicker and easier. And Dave volunteered to make all the arrangements so I was won over!

Friday Jan 9: The trip home was relatively uneventful. Dave had lined up two golf carts for transportation; you don't have to be at the airstrip until 15 minutes before flight time. We took Tropic Air this time and they got us to BZE early enough that we were able to get exit row seats for both of the long flights which fit John's legs a lot better. See my last view of Caye Caulker (below left) from the plane! The only downer was going through Miami immigration. I will never do that again if I can help it. There were huge crowds and the lines "reserved" for US citizens weren't. Everybody just lined up wherever they wanted to and nobody enforced the "US Citizens Only" designations. So it was a good thing we had plenty of time between flights. Other than that, it all went smoothly for which we were grateful. And below right is my favorite sunset - a fitting farewell to Caye Caulker!

Caulker from the air      sunset

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