Colorado - September 2012

Part 3: Old Falls Road, Golden Gate Canyon, Brainard Lake

(Click on the pictures to see enlargements.)

Tuesday September 25 - 

magpieOne of the big differences between Timber Creek and Moraine Park campgrounds is the wildlife.  Over in Timber Creek we had lots of elk; here we have a lot of fairly aggressive magpies.  Usually I have trouble getting a picture of magpies - around here, they sit and beg!  This one, at the right, is eagerly slurping plain old water.   This morning,  I poured my oatmeal into a bowl, added some raisins, and when I turned my back to get the boiling water, a magpie swooped down and stole a raisin!  So funny.  Of course, I didn't get a picture of that! 

mountain view morningBut we managed to have breakfast and set off around 9 AM (early for us - but then it helps when it's above freezing when we get up).  The weather report for the day wasn't very promising (70% chance of rain) so we decided to do some short things this morning (so as not to be too far away from shelter at any given time) and then drive up Old Falls Road: the one way dirt road that runs from Endovalley to the Alpine Visitor Center.

Alluvial FanWe started off towards the Alluvial Fan, stopping at a Long's Peak Viewpoint to take the picture at the left.  It will be important later! 

Barb at Alluvial FanWe had a good time climbing on the rocks at the Alluvial Fan and took loads of pictures.  In 1982, Lawn Lake broke out of its banks and a sudden, severe flash flood came pouring down.  Rocks, both big and small, came along with it.  Now it is a beautiful waterfall (at right).  At the left I've climbed out to the middle to get better pictures!

I was so hypnotized by the Falls that I also took a short video (I keep forgetting that I can do that), linked below.  Then we drove down to Endovalley picnic area and went in search of what is informally known as “Thousand Falls.”  I saw the falls indicated on a park map back in 1999 and decided we should find it - instead we ended up clinging to the side of a cliff! Alluvial FallsThis time we had some vague instructions (from Lisa Foster’s Hiking book) plus a compass, and that helped. 

Fall RiverThere really isn’t a trail but there is, what Lisa calls, "an old fisherman's path" to get started.  We then were to follow Fall River (at left) west to the point where Sundance Creek joins it on the south.  Then you have to cross the river over rocks or fallen logs (we did some of each) and bushwhack up the Sundance Creek until you find the falls. I now totally understand how we ended up on the side of a cliff the last time!  

Thousand FallsJohn at Thousand Falls

But this time we found the right place - it is really a series of small cascades rather than a "falls." Because of the heavy underbrush and many downed logs, you can only see a few of these cascades at a time - we found probably 10 of them (a few pictured at left) and John had a great time scouting the creek for driftwood and rocks (pictured at right). That was rather an adventure since we were blazing the trail as we went along and it involved river crossing and rock climbing. But we got back safely, then just as we got our lunches made, it started to rain so we grabbed the food and jumped back into the car.  We ate lunch in the vehicle and by then it was just sprinkling off and on so we continued on with our plan and started up Old Falls Road.  

Chasm Falls Since this is a one way road, once you start up you are committed to go the whole 9 miles to the Visitor's Center - that's from roughly 8,000 feet altitude up to 12,000 feet. We stopped at the lower Chasm Falls Trailhead (we couldn't hike it because the top part was closed for reconstruction) and took a few pictures (left), climbed a bit. On Old Falls RoadIt wasn’t even raining at that point and the scenery was interesting (right). 

When we got about 4 miles up the road, however we started driving through a cloud. We had SEEN the tops of the mountains clouded over as we drove around the park earlier. But now we got right into it. The speed limit was 20 mph and mostly I did 10-15. It was amazing to us how many other cars were doing this old, narrow, lots of switchbacks road - of course none of us had known that the visibility would disappear half way up!Old Falls Road scenery I could see okay for about 20 feet ahead which, since it was 1-way, was enough as long as I could make the turns. Next, around 7 miles up, it started to snow! When we got to the end at the Alpine Visitor Center, it was coming down pretty steadily.  And the parking lot was jammed - it seemed that either nobody was expecting it or they didn’t care.  

Cafe in cloudsWhen we stopped for cookies and coffee at the snack bar, the sign made me laugh out loud!  You can see in the picture at the right that nothing is visible out the windows - we really were in the clouds!  

After a short break, we started back down via Trail Ridge Road.  This was somewhat better because it was paved and there were lines on the road!  Mostly we knew the stops only because we had been over it before – you still couldn’t see anything except cloud on either side of the road.  Once in a while it would clear up a bit and the snow began to change over to rain.  big horned sheepWhen we got to Rock Cut we saw a whole bunch of cars, which is usually a signal of some wildlife and, sure enough, there were some big horn sheep hanging around on the cliff.  And the cloud had conveniently lifted enough to see them, so we grabbed cameras and played tourist for a bit.  As we walked back to the car we also saw some pikas, though they ducked into their rocks too quickly to get pictures.  

I had wanted to stop at Many Parks Curve to get a picture of the Alluvial Fan from across the park.  When the sun is out it is a stunning picture, but today it was so washed out it's not worth sharing.  Somewhere between that curve and where the road splits, some mule deer sauntered across the road.  mountain view in afternoonNobody was behind me so I stopped and got a few pictures of them but they aren't really worth including either.  (They are in the "pictures only" section if anybody wants to see "it all.")   Finally, as we headed back to the campground after the highways split, we saw the mountain tops we had seen this morning – and they were all snowy!  It’s really true that weather here can change in just a few minutes.  Naturally we had to take a picture of that, too - to compare it  to the one we took about 6 hours earlier!

Back at camp it had stopped raining completely - while it was cool, the temperature was well above freeing down this low so there was no snow.  We put up the screen house quickly while we could in case it started up again!  Pasta is on tonight’s menu and that would take the longest to cook so I went ahead and boiled the pasta right away.  Then we had time to read and clean up and reflect on the day's adventures. 

Wed September 26 –

rock cutNot a good night last night.  The rain stopped long enough for supper and then poured. All night. And I had bad intestinal issues (enough said) from about 3:30 AM on. In the rain.  In the cold. sick face   Fortunately I carry around all sorts of emergency medications and I had it slowed by the time the rain stopped about 8 AM.  I hate to pack up a soaking wet tent but we didn't have a lot of choice today.  We stopped at the Donut Haus to get some breakfast for John; went to Safeway to get ice and a salad lunch for John, then filled up the gas tank with 10 cents off per gallon (redeeming our Safeway Club points) and headed south for Central City.

St. Malo Chapel Our plan was to hike in the Brainard Lake Recreation area tomorrow and perhaps Friday, too.  About 10 years ago we did the Lake Isabelle Trail there and we both remember really enjoying it and being the only people who went on to the glacier where we had a delightful lunch.   So, before we left the motel in Estes Park, I scouted the internet for a place to stay near there.  The best deal that popped up was a 2-night midweek special at the Reserve Casino Hotel in Central City.  That's still about an hour from Brainard Lake but we grabbed it anyway.  So that's why our destination today is Central City!  Before we left Estes Park, we bought tickets for a community theater play Friday night so we also made a reservation to go back to the America's Best Value motel for that final night.

Brainard Lake and Mount AudubonWe've gone by the rock cut (above left) on Highway 7 several times but this is the last time going in this direction so I stopped to take a picture of it!  John also stopped and got some better pictures of the Chapel at St. Malo (above on the right).   We stopped at the Brainard Recreation area to scope it out and see if it was good for hiking tomorrow - we found it quite snowy but took this lovely picture of Brainard Lake and Mount Audubon.  We saw a couple of hikers, with a malamute, coming off the Long Lake trail and asked them how it was – they said there was about 2” of snow around Long Lake (much lower altitude than Lake Isabelle) in numerous places and it was pretty slippery but that once it warms up it’ll melt and dry out pretty quickly.

 
Central CityWe also passed Golden Gate Canyon state park on the way so I looked that up when I got to the hotel (and its excellent WiFi) and now our current plan is to go up there tomorrow.  We can drive around and see numerous views; they also have a bunch of trails from very short to very long. It’s much closer to Central City.  Hopefully the snow around the Brainard Lake Rec area will be somewhat melted by Friday; we'll try to get up early and be off to do Lake Isabelle on the way back up to Estes.

chandelierCentral City (right) has tried to keep the "old timey" feel of the town, though now the major industry is gambling.  The Reserve Casino Hotel is definitely up a notch from the regular "motel standard" that we usually use, but not what I'd call luxurious. There is a very cool chandelier (picture left) in the lobby, however, and the food is very good!  We went to the Ardore Restaurant tonight and enjoyed it very much.   I had salmon with avocado and cream cheese topping and John had meatloaf with merlot sauce plus blueberry pie a la mode – both were excellent, as was the service. They also have a "Market Street" which is more like a food court (and where the breakfast buffet is held) for those who want to grab food and get right back on the gaming floor.  Tonight we had a flat screen TV so were able to hook up the computer and watch a movie, then we went to bed early.  I had some sleep to catch up on!

Thursday September 27 

Pond at visitor centerWe had breakfast downstairs at the $3.99 buffet – there was a huge variety of foods and it was all very good! Then we headed off to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. We just happened to notice a sign yesterday along the highway pointing to its entrance - what a serendipitous find! We stopped at the Visitor Center first, admired the trout pond (picture at right), got a trail map, a day pass ($7) and a tip on the Raccoon Trail - the loop trail we were most interested in hiking today.  She suggested we do it clockwise – start by heading left from Panorama Point -  and that was excellent advice!  The uphill parts would have been much steeper in the other direction.

Panorama PointThe drive up to Panorama Point was very scenic, but nothing compared to the views at the Point itself.  I think it is popular for weddings and I see why, starting with the picture at the left!  We heard thunder and saw the storm clouds, but it stayed blue where we were. It was a delightful 2.5 mile, 2 hour hike that brought us back to the same parking lot.  Beautiful aspens, firs, spruce and pine. We saw/heard a raven soaring overhead "barking." We saw another sort of junco, black squirrel, Stellars Jay; I'm pretty sure we heard a Kingfisher but didn’t see it. We saw some sort of raptor but even with a picture I can't identify it.  We watched a glider or small plane soaring around overhead. The scenery was wonderful! Gorgeous colors, snow capped mountains in the distance; interesting formations nearby.  Truly "awesome autumn" in Colorado.  John referred to this one as our "Zen hike" and perhaps you can see why from the pictures below, taken along the trail. 

view from raccoon trail along raccoon trail awesome view from trail

 more along raccoon trailBarb and John at Panorama PtOne more trail picture at the left - you can see how the surroundings of the trail changed.  One of the very nice things about this particular hike was that the character of the area morphed from aspen to mountains to greens to rocks.  What a variety!  When we got back to the point it was lunchtime, so we had our picnic lunch, admired the ubiquitous chipmunks and ground squirrels, posed for a picture with the panorama as a lovely background, then drove back to the hotel (with one rock hunting stop along the way).  This afternoon, I had time to download and sort pictures, post a selection on Facebook and even had a little time left to read before we went to Dostal Alley Brew Pub up the street for dinner.  That was a good food pick, too.  The pizza was great and John enjoyed a sampler of the beers that are brewed right there.  

Friday September 28

view on highway 119Well, we didn’t get up early so we didn’t leave until about 9:30, after having the breakfast buffet and getting a very yummy-looking panini to go for John's lunch. As we were driving up to the recreation area, we passed a portable highway sign that said something like "Caution!  Do not stop in the roadway."  And I thought that was awfully weird until I went around the curve and almost stopped in the roadway!   The picture at the right should explain it all. wink

So, between sleeping in a little and then stopping for pictures, when we got to the Long Lake trailhead at about 10:40 AM a car ahead of us was just sliding into the last parking spot.  sad face We saw a few cars that had been ticketed for not having a day-use tag so I figured it wasn't a good idea to steal a handicapped place. The only overflow parking was a good half a mile down a hill so we made a quick change of plans and drove on down to the Mitchell Lake trailhead where there was still plenty of room.  Though the trailhead is in the Brainard Lake Recreation Area, most of the trail itself is in the Indian Peaks Wilderness of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests.

Mitchell LakeMitchell CreekThis trail goes by Mitchell Lake (left) and then on up to Blue Lake.  We really hadn’t given any thought to how high up we were – which in hindsight is silly since we drove about 5 miles up hill to get to the trailhead!  Turns out the trailhead was at 10,450 feet and we ended up climbing almost another 1000 feet or so above that, which makes this the highest altitude of any of the hikes we did. There was also still lots of snow around, though the trails themselves were mostly cleared.  It was interesting that some places that were icy on our way up were dry after sitting in the sun all morning.  Lake Mitchell was only about a mile and a fairly easy 45 minute hike – we crossed 2 streams: Mitchell Creek at right had a nice cascade.   

The next mile was MUCH harder but also beautiful.  Very steep, lots of rocks to climb, a couple of streams to cross on logs (admittedly, they were wide logs – but still logs).  Some views below.

Mitchell Lake Trail  Mitchell Trail view  Mitchell Trail view

Picnic spotrequisite ground squirrelBlue Lake is 2 miles from Mitchell Lake and physically we could have gone all the way there, but we did have a time constraint – we needed to get back to Estes Park for dinner and a play tonight. So we stopped for lunch at an unnamed (as far as I can tell) lake about a mile from Mitchell that was very nice and had lots of sitting-on rocks (pictured at left) plus the requisite cute ground squirrels and jays. It was very pleasant and we spent about half an hour sitting in the sun and enjoying the peace.

snow ornamentationlast Colorado pictureOn the trail back to the parking lot, John spotted this piece of bark in the snow and had to get a picture!  Then, on the way back to Estes Park we stopped at a "scenic overlook" we had passed and ignored several times.   It was indeed very scenic and captured the general feel of the trip - a perfect view for my last Colorado picture. 

We got to the motel around 3:30 PM and so had time to do a batch of laundry and grab supper at the Grumpy Gringo down the street.  The play was in an auditorium at the YMCA of the Rockies on the other side of town, but we got there with plenty of time to find the building.  The play we saw was "The Art of Murder" by Joe DiPietro - he wrote the book for "All Shook Up" which we enjoyed a lot and that was one of the reasons we were interested in seeing it.  The production was pretty dismal, however, so we really couldn't even tell how good (or not) the play was.  I suspect that the quality of the performance was typical of community theater and we are just very spoiled here having such excellent directors and performers!  

Saturday, Sunday September 29, 30

John on Nebraska hillIn the morning we headed down Big Thompson Canyon and went home via Cheyenne to stop at the Sierra Trading Post Outlet on I-70.  Now John is looking for a new daypack; he got some ideas there but none was exactly what he was looking for.  (He found the perfect one at Target after we got back home!)

I had to take the picture at left at a rest stop in Nebraska.  It's an extremely flat state but John was still in "hill climbing" mode so when Iowa fall colorhe saw a marker up on a hill, he just had to run up (yes, really, he ran) and read it. Can you make him out way up there?  It was about geology but there was also a sign warning about rattle snakes!  We stopped for dinner at the Japanese restaurant we enjoyed so much in Kearney but then drove on a little further and stopped for the night in Grand Island (at USA Inns of America - very low cost, right by I-80, comfortable and clean).  

Sunday, coming back into Iowa (right), I was somewhat sorry the trip was at an end but delighted to see our own Iowa fall colors, too!

  

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