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Sunday January 25 - Tuesday January 27 ![]() We
picked up Katie and George at the airport Sunday night and filled the
car up with cheap (Costco) gas. Monday was a sleep-in day as they
were tired from a long day of travelling. After breakfast I took
them up to Kihei
Rent a Car
to add them as drivers for our car (no extra charge) and then we went
to Safeway to stock up for the next 2 weeks. In the afternoon,
John took them on a walk along the shore trail we used regularly - they
saw a big pile of turtles in the cove and watched a whale calf showing
off for its mom! And the sun put on a good show at sunset, too!![]() Tuesday
was our Haleakala volcano day. We packed lunches and left around
8:30 am. George drove us up the very steep, twisty roads.
Our first stop was at Hosmer Grove that has a nice half mile loop
trail. We met some rangers part way who showed us several
endangered bird and gave us hints on how to spot them. We had
already seen some nene (picture at right: a goose that is the state
bird) in the parking lot; we also saw an 'apapane (big red one) and
i'iwi (smaller red with a long curved bill) and heard the Hawaii
amakihi (small yellow). Katie managed to snap a picture of an
i'iwi in flight (below left) but I just wasn't fast enough to get any
of them! It was a pleasant hike and we also saw a couple
different types of Eucalyptus tree (peppermint eucalyptus in the center
below). Continuing upward, we stopped at Leleiwi overlook that was a short hike from the parking lot over rocks to the viewpoint - the photo on the right above is along that trail; it is an interesting desert-like area at cloud height! At the overlook, we got an awesome view of craters and cones. Clouds added a lot of interest to the views. A few of those pictures are below - there are many more in the Photos collection! ![]() Then
we continued on to the summit (summit overlook at the right, sign at
the left). The views were all fantastic; views of the crater were
much like the ones we saw from Leleiwi except we were higher up,
looking down on it. The ecology is more desert-like up
there. One of the fun things we learned is that the native
'āhinahina plant (aka silversword - photo at left below) grows nowhere
else in the world, it only blossoms once in its lifetime and was
endangered until a federal effort was undertaken to protect it.
We ate our picnic lunch near the visitor center. The only picnic
areas are down at the lower visitor center and Hosmer grove so we sat
in the car or on the stone walls. We walked up to the summit
point and saw the Space Surveillance Complex
(not part ofthe park) - pictured in the center below. We could
see Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island over the clouds - see the
picture on the right below. I had really wanted to walk the first
half mile of the Sliding Sands (aka Keonehe'ehe'e) Trail but we were
all too drained to even try it. I was amazed at how wiped out I
felt - we were over 10,000 feet and I'm sure the altitude was a big
part of it. On the way back down, we stopped at the Kalahaku Overlook that had similar views to the Leleiwi one. There was a long stairway (or ramp) up to the viewpoint and the clouds were quite remarkable by then, making the views of the craters, cones and slides rather unearthly. We took pictures of us with "our heads in the cloud!" Driving back down was a little scary as we were going through the clouds. We got back to the condo around 4 pm; we crashed, took showers and then went to Coconuts Fish Cafe (an easy walk up the street) for supper. It was okay but I didn't like it as much as others did. Maybe because I had coconut shrimp and so it was fried. They did have some plates that were grilled but I had my heart set on coconut tonight! Wednesday-Thursday January 28 - 29 ![]() On Wednesday
John and Katie did some snorkeling near the rocks on
Kamaole Beach II; George read and I did laundry and read.
Thursday was the start of our big Road to Hana adventure! This is
a long windy road from Kahului to Hana at the very eastern tip of the
island. It has about 620 curves and crosses 69 one-lane bridges -
George was recruited to drive! We left around 8:30 then stopped
for gas at Cosco and headed east. At MM9 (before the numbering
restarts) we stopped at Ho'okipa Beach. It is known for being a great
surfing spot and for turtle watching in the afternoon. We didn't
see turtles in the morning but enjoyed watching the surfers for a
while! ![]() Our
next stop was Twin Falls at MM2 (after we restarted at 0 at
Pe'ahi). It cost $10 for parking but there was still plenty of
room in the mid-morning. There are actually 3 falls that we visited:
the first two were fairly close to the parking lot then there was a
longer hike up to the third one. It was a nice walk, with assorted
flowers (below are: a bamboo stand, heliconia and walking iris) then
the higher falls (really sort of a "double" falls) required wading
across a rocky pool. I had
water shoes and the others kindly waited for me to change shoes and go
take pictures that are shown below the flowers.![]() Our
next stop was lunch at Kaumahina State Wayside
Park (MM12) that had picnic facilities and nice coastal views (one at
left). Then, a little further down the road we stopped to visit Ke'anae
Arboretum (MM16).
There is no charge for this arboretum and it was a delightful
hike. Highlights were the Rainbow Eucalyptus and many
flowers (purple spider lily at the right) and great spiders! Below are
the eucalyptus (you can see where the "rainbow" name comes from), a torch ginger and Hawaiian garden spider.![]() We
stopped again at Pua'a Kaa State Wayside (MM22) to use the facilities
and got a bonus prize of more waterfalls! (Pictured at the
left.) We made a short stop around MM25 at Makapipi Falls - these
falls are under the
bridge
we
were standing on which meant we'd get a much better view from another
place. We had wanted to go to Kahanu Gardens but they close
at 3 PM and it was already almost 3, so we just went on to the Hana Kai
resort in Hana where we were spending the night. You can see from the picture at the right, the Hana Kai has a beautiful location, right on the ocean. Since we were only there for one night, we had selected one of the smaller suites but we found we were upgraded from our original reservation into a 2 bedroom, 2 bath suite with a full kitchen and marvelous views from floor to ceiling windows and sliding doors all along the east side. Wow - we recommend them highly! We spent some time walking on the black sand beach then took advantage of the kitchen by getting take-out supper at the nearby Food Truck park. John got Thai and the rest of us chose Mexican burritos, quesadillas and tacos. We have a strenuous morning planned tomorrow so went to bed early! Friday, January 30 Since
we are now on the east end of Maui, we could watch a beautiful sunrise
from the deck. We had minimal breakfast stuff with us but George
went out and scrounged some goodies (banana bread and pineapple coconut
bread, e.g.) We left around 9 am for the Kipahulu district of the
Haleakala National Park. It was hard to believe but the road
from
Hana to the park entrance was even WORSE than the rest of it - it was
not only twisty but also bumpy, very narrow and not well
maintained. Katie,
John and I hiked the 2-mile (each way) Pipiwai Trail to
the Waimoku Falls with an elevation gain about 800 feet; it took about
4 hours. It was quite steep and rocky - fortunately it hadn't
rained recently as I understand it gets really muddy and slippery when
wet. Highlights - starting at the right include a walking
palm; then below at the left is a giant Banyan Tree about a half mile
up - see John standing next to it for a sense of its size (click
the picture to enlarge it) and notice the long low branch on its left that has
rooted itself in several places. Below from left to right: we crossed
several streams and bridges - this one is Palikea Stream with a small
cascade we could see from a bridge; At about 1 mile up we come to a
bamboo forest - part of the trail in this area is a boardwalk which is a
great relief from climbing over and around all the rocks. (John
and Katie are up ahead of me on the boardwalk.) Finally, at the
top we come to the 400 foot Waimuko Falls. Even though this is a
rainforest, it is currently in a drought so the falls isn't as profound
as it sometimes is but we still found it pretty impressive! We
also saw various types of flowers, other plants, spiders and bees! ![]() ![]() George wasn't interested in the torturous climb but waited patiently - he walked the "7 Pools" trail near the Visitor Center and shared the pictures he took of that; he mostly just enjoyed the peace and quiet, listening to some podcasts. On the way back to Kihei we stopped for a late lunch at the Food Trucks in Hana where I got a picture of a friendly gecko. We drove the rest of the way back without stopping - it was raining much of the way (not hard, fortunately). I did get a couple snapshots of waterfalls we could see from the road but mostly we were just enjoying the lushness of the forests we were driving through. We got back safely and tired. I got out a "quick and easy" supper - frozen ravioli with canned marinara sauce - and then we headed for showers, books and an early bedtime. ![]() Saturday January 31 - Monday February 2 These
were mostly windy, lazy days. George went out and got cinnamon
rolls for breakfast; the waves were quite rough (snorkel score was
3.5/10) and the lifeguards were having a hard time keeping kids away
from the surf. John and I took a beach walk but not very long.
Katie took George to the airport Sunday. The contractor upstairs
doesn't work weekends so we enjoyed the quiet! Monday it was even
more windy - the snorkel score was 1.5! It had rained some so we
went back to the Kealia bird refuge to see if there were more birds
around. Nope - it was so windy that they were almost
absent! The few that were there (mostly stilts) had a hard time
even flying in the wind. We made our, hopefully last, grocery
stop to get fresh produce for the last week. I like the kind of
sunset pictured at left, where the light outlines the clouds.Tuesday February 3 The snorkel score was 3 so it didn't seem to be a good beach day. We started at the Wailea Village Farmer's Market and found a few goodies. One of the vendors was showing us watercolors of La Perouse Bay and said we really needed to go see it. So we did! ![]() Katie
drove us all the way to the "bottom" point at La Perouse Bay. The
last couple miles were reminiscent of Hana Road! Very twisty,
bumpy, narrow. But she handled it like a pro! There is a
parking area at the end of the road in the lava fields of the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve.
We could see whale activity but were not close enough for
pictures. It was a beautiful area - we spent some time climbing
around on the lava rocks - there were DOZENS of cars there, including a
school bus with what appeared to be middle school kids on a field trip!
John was very taken by the dead tree in the parking lot and declared it
"driftwood" so I took its picture (above, left). We weren't
equipped for the very primitive Hoapili Trail but that's where the
trailhead is for another time. From the bay we could see the Haleakala
volcano in the distance - its last eruption was at least 200 years
ago. We paused to read the La Perouse Monument (at the right
above) to the first known European navigator to land at Keone'o'io
(what is now known as La Perouse Bay). On the way back north we
stopped at a few pull-offs for the awesome scenery and picture
taking. The pictures below are of the lava fields that extend
into the bay. You need sturdy shoes for exploring and risk nasty
cuts if you twist an ankle! The one at the right is taken at a
small pull-off at Ahihi Cove (not the big paved parking lot where there
is a fee to park) along Makena Road, with Molokini Island in the
background. In the afternoon, I talked Katie into
walking up to the Beach Street Shave Ice store because I thought it
wasn't right to go to Maui and not try the renowned shave ice! It
was okay but not rave-worthy. There are macadamia nuts in the
bottom, then a layer of ice cream, then shave ice and flavored syrup on
top. It was very refreshing on a hot day, though! In the
late afternoon, Katie and I went down to The Shops in Wailea to see a
Polynesian dance performance. The troupe was very good - included
all ages from 4 years up to "very mature." They were performing
native dances that told stories about the culture and history of the
island. We got the best views across from the stage on the second
floor; sadly we couldn't understand most of it because the sound system
was "fuzzy." But it was fun to watch and we also enjoyed the many kids
in the audience who were trying to do the dances, too!Wednesday February 4 - Thursday February 5 ![]() Wednesday we just relaxed, hung out at home and walked
the beach - but here's an interesting sunset picture (no clouds
tonight). I love the way the waves are reflected in the
sun! Thursday morning we went to Mile Marker 14 on highway 30 -
aka Olowalu beach - for snorkeling. What an interesting reef - it
was near high tide and that makes the beach narrow, but the marine life
is awesome. We saw lots
of fish and turtles. I got claustrophobic and didn't last too
long out there, but I did get a good turtle picture (above, right) and SAW a
lot of fish that my
camera couldn't capture. Besides snorklers, there were lots of
kayaks, canoes and a scuba class. It was a VERY busy
road, bumper to bumper in both directions, making it quite hard to turn
anywhere, even a right hand turn from the parking area was tough. More pictures from that morning include
Katie (left) and John (right) snorkeling. Below is a (bad) picture of
what I'm pretty sure are parrot fish - my old underwater camera doesn't
focus well anymore. In the center is a picture of a
well-camouflaged sand crab that was entertaining me for a while and on
the right is a picture showing the "beach." There is no parking
lot so cars just park along the road wherever they can pull off.
There are lots of trees which helps make it shady but, especially near
high tide, it's very narrow. In the afternoon, we just read and relaxed. ![]() Friday February 6 - Sunday February 8 Friday was mostly a lay around day. Katie and I went to the Whale Sanctuary in the morning and saw the presentation. Their "presenter" didn't show up so we had a substitute, but she was the "Education Director" and was quite interesting. She had a little trouble with the AV but the content was fine! Some of the videos were pretty dramatic. A storm is kicking up so we didn't get any good whale sightings from shore. We could see some but they were way out. In the afternoon, we did a little beach walking before supper. ![]() Saturday
there were flood/storm/wind warnings, so we mostly just hunkered
down. We each, separately, took breaks and went out for walks -
it was cloudy and the beach was pretty empty, as it should be in these
conditions. The pictures on the left and right show a little of
what happens after several days of rain - the culverts overflow and
make "holding ponds" and the sand gets some lovely patterns. Hallie
(our condo owner) stopped by, apologizing for the construction upstairs
- of course it wasn't her fault but she was distressed that she knew
nothing about it and said at least it should have been posted so
residents would know about it. She said she had gone to Costco
for some shopping today and, after 5 trips through the parking lot, she
gave up and went to WalMart instead! It's what happens here
(Iowa) when a blizzard is predicted! But she said we should be fine
driving to the airport tomorrow (Katie's leaving) in terms of flooding,
but the issue of the high winds is still unknown. Tonight we had
our splurge and went to Cafe O'Lei
for supper. It's close so we walked (in the wind and rain) and it was a
fantastic meal. We had 3 different things and then got the
lucious desserts as a take-out - it was all great!On Sunday it was windy but not so much as to cause serious issues; rained off and on. There were some power outages up in the west end and some in Kahului. We stopped at Costco for some things Katie wanted to take home (it
wasn't so busy today) and to get gas, then dropped her off at the
airport and came back. Stopped at Safeway to get yogurt for
tomorrow and cookies (our thank-you gift for George for all of his
driving). Then we just hung out and read books - there was no
sunset visible with all the clouds.Monday February 9 The rain stopped so the beach was packed today! We took one last afternoon walk along the shore trail above Kam III and took bird pictures. That whole field up there is a great bird area - I found it interesting that there were still varieties we hadn't seen! A rosy-faced lovebird, a common waxbill and a java sparrow (that is clearly NOT a "sparrow") are shown below. Mostly we did laundry, packing, cleaning. We finished up as much of the food as we could so we didn't have to throw out very much. There was a teeny tiny bit of sunset - pictured above, just because it was the last one in Kihei! ![]()
Tuesday February 10 We left around 8:15am to return the car. That was way early but we've sat for 15-20 minutes in traffic on S. Kihei Rd so wanted to be sure to allow plenty of time. Car return was easy, shuttle was prompt. At the airport, both security and agriculture inspection was easy (my cut, cored apples went through without question) but Hawaiian air made us pay for our baggage. That's new - in the past when we booked through Delta and just had the short intra-island flight on Hawaiian, we were not charged. But today they said "Hawaiian has different policies than Delta." So
basically, fork
over $70 or don't take your luggage home! Annoying but not worth
hassling about. Hawaiian and Alaska Airlines combined recently so
this policy change may be due to that change. John's carry-on
handle broke and wouldn't retract but he managed to find room for it on
both planes. One downside of a mostly open-air terminal is that birds
wander in and can't figure out how to get back out! (left
above) Our last view of the Maui coast is on the right,
above. And the last vacation sunset, from the plane, was over the
clouds shown at the right.Wednesday February 11 Katie picked us up (over my objections) at MSP at 5 AM!! We slept in their guest room about 5 hours then ate and gathered up our stuff. She was working from home so helped us use their cart to get everything out to the garage. Got home around 6 pm after a couple of stops. John went off to choir practice to prepare for a large production this weekend (Jazz Sunday); I started unpacking, watering plants, turning on heat, etc. It was a great month and we'll miss the island. Epilogue: A couple weeks after we got home, Hawaii, especially Maui, was really hit by a huge Kona Storm (cyclone) and flooding. They needed rain, but not THAT much! The road we walked across to get to the beach every day was partially washed out. Roads were closed due to landslides and flooding. This went on for a couple of weeks and it was so hard to watch the reports and videos and remember what it was like just last month. But the communities rallied and things opened up as quickly as they could - obviously they'd lost a ton of business during this disaster. The crosswalk in the pictures below is right where we crossed S. Kihei Road to get to the beach side. Fred's Cafe (that proclaims they are open on the sign) was about a block from where we stayed. So sad, but I was glad to read that all the stores in that plaza were reopened and that recovery is at least underway. (These pictures were posted publicly on Facebook.) Click
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